This morning I spent some time readying my dashboard to be sent off for restoration. This entailed removing all of the bits and pieces, such as knobs and gauges, so that the dash foam and covering can be replaced.
I’ve decided to go with Dashboard Restorations to rebuild the dash. I’m committed to a fully restored dashboard because it will be such a focal point of the new interior. I’ve checked around and Dashboard Restorations had the most reasonable prices and has experience doing roadster dashes. Additionally, a number of folks from Classic Z Car club had their dashes restored by Dashboard Restorations and had very positive feedback.
Here are pictures of the assembled dash, front and rear.
I began by removing the two dash vents blow air upwards out of the top of the dash that defog/defrost the windshield. I used an 8 mm wrench to remove the nuts from the studs that are attached to the dash. There are two vents and two nuts on each vent.
Then I removed the clock. It was held in place by two nuts. I used a 10 mm socket with an extension to remove both of the nuts. With the nuts removed the clock came right out.
Then I removed the two metal brackets at the bottom of the dash, below the clock, that the heater mounts to. These brackets were each attached by two bolts which I removed using a #2 Phillips head screwdriver.
Then I removed the oil pressure/temperature/fuel/amperage gauge. It was attached by two wing nuts, which I loosened using a pair of pliers.
The tachometer and speedometer I removed the same way, moving from left to right across the back of the dashboard and removing the wing nuts.
Next I removed the “S-brake” light. It simply unscrews from the back of the dashboard.
And I removed the knob that controls the brightness of the gauge lights. I had removed the knob prior to pulling the dash, so I just needed to remove the small nuts that held from the back of the dash (using a 5.5 mm socket) and pull it out from behind. Then I went to work on the trip odometer knob. It was fastened to the rear of the dash, also by two 5.5 mm nuts mounted on studs in the dash itself.
With the small nuts removed I could pull the bracket that held the odometer cable to the dash away (that cable connects to the speedometer). I then popped the knob off the front of the dash and used a Flathead screwdriver to pry the post back through the rear of the dash.
Inside the glove box where two bolts, one on each side, that held the cardboard box in place. I removed these using a #2 Phillips head screwdriver. Then I removed the four knobs off the top of the dash using an 8 mm wrench.
Finally, here is a picture of the stripped dash, ready to be sent off for restoration. It will get new, crack-proof foam and a new space-age vinyl covering.