Clearing out the Engine Bay

Today I spent some time removing the remaining components from the engine bay. This included the hydraulic components (master cylinders and hard lines) and some other miscellaneous bits and pieces. Here is a picture of the engine bay before I began:

The first thing I did was to remove the hood pins. These are not original, so I am going to try to repair the car to the point at which one cannot tell they were ever there. The pins were threaded and bolted in on the top and the bottom.

I loosened the lower bolt using a 3/4″ wrench and socket, and out it came. XXX is a nice dent and hole where the pins were located that will need to be repaired.

On the driver’s side of the firewall were the brake and clutch master cylinders. On the passenger’s side was the brake junction box that contains the switch for the “S-Brake” light in the car.

I started with the clutch master cylinder. I loosened and removed the clutch line fitting on the side of the cylinder using a 7/16″ wrench.

There was a clamp securing all of the hard lines onto the middle of the firewall that I removed in order to free up the lines.

Then I was able to remove the clutch line, which terminated at a bracket on the body on the lower passenger side, where the soft line attached to it previously.

I loosened the bracketed that held the clutch master reservoir in place using a 10 mm wratcheting wrench and then popped the plastic reservoir right off. My clutch master must have been replaced recently by the previous owner because it is in very good shape.

The master was bolted to the firewall from the inside; I loosened and removed the two nuts on the outside using a 1/2″ wrench (top) and a 1/2″ socket on an extension (bottom).

Then I was able to pull the clutch master cylinder through the firewall and out of the engine bay. Because I intend to re-use this master cylinder, I took wiped it down and cleaned it up and took it inside.

I cleaned up the parts using alcohol and wiped them dry with clean paper towels. If I keep the cylinder clean and dry it should not deteriorate while in temporary storage.

Then I turned my attention to the brake master cylinder. It has two reservoirs, and two similar hard lines mounted to the bottom of each. I loosened and removed these lines using a 7/16″ wrench.

Likewise I loosened the bolt on the reservoir clamps, then removed the reservoirs, and removed the nut from the top bolt that mounted the cylinder to the firewall using a 1/2″ wrench.

I had to use a fully rotating wratcheting wrench (1/2″) to be able to access the lower mounting nut. It was a very tight fit making it impossible to get a conventional wrench or a socket with an extension in there. So I held that nut with the flexible wrench and turned the 1/2″ bolt from the other side of the firewall to get it loose.

With that bolt loose the brake master was free from the firewall.

Then I pulled the brake master cylinder out. I plan to replace this piece because it is clearly old and may not be in the best condition, considering the brakes were non-functioning when I got the car.

Both hard brake lines from the master cylinder led into the bottom of a junction box on the passenger side of the firewall. This box also contains the switch for the “S-brake” light in the car. That light is supposed to come on when/if you lose pressure in the braking system. Out of the junction box emerge two more hard lines that feed the right and left left front brakes. The line out of the top of the box supplies the driver’s side and the line out of the side of the box supplies the passenger side. I loosened the box’s mounting bolt using a 1/2″ socket and removed the box.

I left all of the brake lines attached.

I removed the remaining fuel supply line, which had previously run from the fuel pump to the carburetors.

There was an oil line that connected to the oil pressure gauge inside the car. I pulled this outward into the engine bay and had to twist it around to navigate all of its bends through the hole in the firewall.

After popping the rubber firewall grommet off I pulled the end of the line through the firewall.

Then there were two metal brackets that the throttle arm and cable had connected to. I removed these using a Phillips head screwdriver.

From under the upper edge of the hood I unscrewed the four mounting screws and removed the VIN tag.

I also pulled off the sticker that indicates the paint color.

Inside underneath the firewall were the air/heat vents on either side. I removed the flaps that open and close these vents. Each flap pivoted on a post. In order to get the posts free I bent the metal tab holding them in place on the firewall side mounting hole.

Then I was able to slide that end of the post down and away and pull the other end of the post out of its hole.

Here is one flap after I removed it from the vent.

Next I removed the hood hinges, each of which was mounted in place by a bolt through the bottom. I used a 7/16″ socket and wrench.

Then I removed the hood prop from the driver’s side front edge of the engine bay. I straightened and removed the cotter pin holding it in place.

That completed the clearing of the engine bay.

Here are the two halves; the once and future homes of the master cylinders and junction box.

Second Frame Cleaning

I spent today giving the entire frame a thorough second cleaning and de-greasing. I had washed the top of the frame once before, but it was so greasy that another washing was in order. I also cleaned the bottom side of the frame. I used undiluted Simple Green with rags, scouring pads, and a wire brush where necessary. After applying the detergent I scrubbed down the frame, one section at a time, and then sprayed with the hose at high pressure in order to clean away the debris.

I hauled the frame out of the garage and set it up on a pair of sawhorses.

As I was cleaning around the transmission mount, I noticed that there was a lot of grease in the area behind it. From underneath it was clear that there were six bolts attaching the transmission mount to the frame.

I removed the bolts using a 1/2″ socket.

The transmission mount was actually two pieces. The lower piece mounted to the frame, and the upper piece is made of rubber and is the piece the transmission actually attached to. I removed the two bolts that held the two parts together using a 1/2″ socket.

With the two pieces apart, I scrubbed the transmission mount with some more Simple Green. Both pieces came fairly clean.

Back in crotch of the frame’s “X” where the transmission mount had been there was a lot of grease and dirt built-up. Also, the four outside corners of the “X” where pretty bad as well.

After scrubbing and using more de-greaser those areas came fairly clean.

On the areas of the frame where the horsehair frame pads had been located there was some adhesive residue. I used a paint scraper to remove it.

The adhesive came off in clumps and the paint scraper was pretty effective removing it.

There were some remaining bits I had not removed from the frame. The first was a bracket that the exhaust had mounted to, located midway up the frame on the driver’s side. I removed it using a 9/16″ socket.

From right to left on the rear of the frame there were four brackets to remove. The first was on the right edge of the frame. The second was in the center of the frame. The rear bumper was mounted on these brackets, and I removed each using a 14 mm socket.

On the left end of the frame there were two more brackets. The first was oriented towards the inside of the frame; it held the exhaust. The second was another bumper-mounting bracket. I used the 14 mm socket to remove the bolts for each of these.

After a final rinsing I was satisfied that the top of the frame was clean. Here are a couple of pictures of the front of the frame.

And below, left is a shot of the inner corner of the “X” crosspiece of the frame, nice and clean. To the right is a shot of the top of the crosspiece, clean enough to almost see my reflection.

I used my hoist to turn the frame over so I could then clean the bottom. I hoisted the front (heavy) end up, rotated and lowered it onto its edge, and then put it down on the ground upside down. Next I was able to lift one end at a time back up onto the sawhorses, the same way I had originally done (only upside down).

The front and middle of the frame were pretty greasy.

The rear of the frame was dirty. I began by spraying the whole thing down with the hose. From the bottom I could access some of the areas that were difficult to reach from the top.

The front suspension housings required a lot of attention. I removed the upper spring gaskets. There was a lot of road grime and small pebbles up inside the frame, which had no-doubt been kicked up from the road by the wheels.

So I scrubbed inside with a scouring pad and more Simple Green. Then I used the wire brush to remove more grime.

After spraying at high pressure with the hose, the area ultimately came fairly clean. I moved on to the rear portion of the frame. Much of it was caked with dirt and grime.

With more elbow grease these areas came clean.

On the underside of the brackets where the steering and idler boxes mount where a couple of bolts that I removed using a 13 mm socket.

That completed my cleaning of the frame. Although there is some orange surface rust, the grease and dirt is largely gone.

The middle and rear look good as well.

Remember this???

After the frame dried, I flipped it back over and lowered it onto a mover’s dolly I’ve been using to cart it around, and pushed it back into the garage.

I think the frame is finally ready for sandblasting and then painting.

Removed the Transmission from the Engine

After removing the engine and transmission from the frame I need to mount the engine on my engine stand and do some work on the transmission. This necessitates removing the transmission from the engine block.

I began by draining the transmission oil. Before removing the drain plug it is always a good idea to make sure you can remove the fill plug in order to be able to refill the transmission. The fill plug was located towards the back of the bell housing on the driver’s side. I removed it with no problem using a 20 mm socket. Then I replaced it again.

The drain plug was located underneath the bell housing, also towards the rear. I removed it using my 1/2″ drive ratchet with no socket.

This picture is out of focus, but it shows the drain plug after I removed it. The plug is magnetized to catch any metal shavings or metal dust that grind off the gears when the transmission is operating. Mine had a few rather large chunks of metal and lots of shavings attached to it. As I’ve said before, the shifting was sloppy on the car when I drove it. I cleaned off the plug and replaced it after the oil had drained.

The transmission bell housing is connected into the engine block by a grand total of six bolts. Four of these are large bolts around the perimeter of the bell housing. I removed each of these using a 9/16″ socket.

The other two are smaller bolts at the bottom of the bell housing. I removed these using a 1/2″ socket and a 1/2″ wrench to hold the bolts from spinning.

At this point the transmission was disconnected but didn’t want to come free. The starter was bolted into the bell housing from the front, so I decided to remove it in case that was what was holding the two pieces together. The starter is just held on with two bolts which I removed using a 14 mm socket.

The starter came right off with those bolts removed. You can see below, right the gear on the starter motor that engages the teeth around the edge of the flywheel to get the car started.

A couple of taps with the mallet and a bit of prying and I heard that satisfying “thunk” of the transmission coming off the engine.

I slid the transmission off the crankshaft and put is aside for now.

The pressure plate and clutch disc were held in place by six bolts that I removed using a 13 mm socket. The flywheel wants to turn when you try to loosen these bolts, but I was able to either (1) hold the flywheel in place using downward force at the time I turned the wrench or (2) use a quick bump on the wrench to work the bolt loose while inertia held the flywheel in place.

You can see how worn the clutch disc is. I think a new clutch is in order when I put this all back together. Below, left is a shot of the flywheel.

Pulled the Engine

This afternoon I pulled the engine and transmission off the frame. It was difficult, especially removing the bolts from the transmission mount, but I can imagine that it was infinitely easier than doing so with the body still on the frame.

The engine mounts are located on either side of the block a bit closer to the front of the engine than mid-way. The mounts have studs that protrude through rubber blocks and nuts that hold the engine to the mount. I started on the passenger side, removing the two engine mount nuts using a 14 mm socket.

One the driver’s side is a similar set-up but the nuts weren’t recessed as far down.

The transmission mount is located at the front of where the “X” of the frame comes together. There are two bolts that mount through the frame into the gearbox from below, one on each side.

I removed these bolts using a 17 mm combination wrench. The area was too narrow top-to-bottom to get a socket in there and I don’t have a 17 mm wratcheting wrench. It took a lot of time and sweat to remove these bolts. Note to self: buy a 17 mm wratcheting wrench before re-installing the transmission! I looked around the engine and found one hose still connected to the frame. Everything else appeared to be free.

So I hooked up the chains of my hoist to the brackets that came attached to the engine (this engine has clearly been out in the sun before–I know it has been rebuilt once by the PO) and started hoisting. The engine came free after a little hesitation and there were no connections I’d missed. If you look closely at the picture below, right you can see some of the coolant that spilled out of the block upon hoisting the engine. It seems like there is always more coolant hiding somewhere and just waiting to spill on your shoes.

Once it was airborne, I backed the hoist up into the garage to lower the engine and transmission on some wood blocks.

Here is a close-up of the transmission mount. Below are some shots of the frame with the drivetrain removed.

Odds & Ends, continued

This morning I continued what I began last night, removing more of the hard lines the connect controls on the body to the power train and/or frame.

I started with the brake lines. Hard (metal) lines connect the master cylinder to the wheel area, where soft (rubber) lines connect to the brakes themselves. As the hard lines are connected to the body, the point where they join the soft lines is an ideal spot to eliminate this union. I used a 7/16″ box end wrench to loosen the coupling on the hard line and a 5/8″ wrench to hold the coupling on the soft line from turning. I had to use some Liquid Wrench and a lot of persuasion to get the couplings apart. On the left side there was actually a different upper coupling and I used a 9mm wrench because the 7/16 was a bit too big.

I took the caps of the master cylinder brake fluid reservoirs to allow the lines to drain more freely. You can see how dark and dirty the brake fluid was!

Then I moved on to the rear brake lines. Actually there is one hard line that goes back to the center of the car, and then connects to a soft line that connects to another hard line that runs side-to-side on the car, feeding brake fluid to each wheel’s drum brakes. I disconnected this first point where the hard line meets the soft line. It was not easy to access.

I jacked-up the rear of the car and put jack stands under the frame on the right and left sides. Then I slid under the car just ahead of the left rear wheel. Even when using jack stands I am always careful to prevent putting any body part under part of the car that could fall to the ground.

Below are two pictures of the connection I was working on. In the first you can see the leaf spring in the foreground. In the second one, which was shot after I sprayed on some Liquid Wrench, you can see the differential in the background.

I used a 7/16″ wrench on the top coupling, attached to the hard line, and a 3/4″ wrench on the bottom coupling attached to the soft line. I had to use a pair of vice grips to break the top one loose. Eventually it came off after a lot of turns.

Next I moved on to the clutch line. The master cylinder had a steel line that I followed down below where the oil pressure line connected (see post dated #2 July 2005#). You can see the clutch line below left, it is the dirty connection below the already-disconnected bronze oil pressure line. I disconnected the clutch line similarly to the brake lines, using a 9/16″ wrench. I reached in from below to access the coupling because I couldn’t get at it from the top. Still, my view of what I was doing was obscured by the frame.

As I did with the brake lines, I used a small drip container to catch the draining fluid. The clutch cylinder drained entirely.

I also disconnected the emergency brake cable at a connection about midway down the car on the passenger’s side. I disconnected the lower, front cable from the assembly using a 7/16″ socket to remove the outer nut and a 7/16″ wrench to hold the longer inner nut from spinning.

Then I unbolted the longer inner bolt using the socket. I used a 1/4″ box wrench to hold the flat portion of the cable-rod from spinning as I removed that nut.

I believe that takes car of the hard connections between the body and the frame.

Pedals

There are still some components remaining inside the car that need to be removed and cleaned up before the car’s body is painted. I am working on the wiring harness, but I took a break from that to remove the pedals.

The gas pedal is bolted directly into a post that goes through the firewall and is connected to a mechanism that operates the throttle cable in the engine bay. I removed the pedal by loosening the nut with a 9/16″ socket and then sliding off the pedal, spring, and washer. The brake and clutch pedals are mounted on longer metal brackets that bolt through a coupling (so they may swivel) high under the dashboard.

I removed both nuts using a 3/4″ socket and wrench to prevent the whole bolt from rotating.

Both pedals are spring loaded to keep them in the forward position until foot-pressure is applied. The springs mounted on the pedals and connected to the body just above the steering column. After removing these springs I was able to pull the pedals down a bit and work on the connections to the pedals’ respective cylinders. Both the brake pedal and clutch pedal were attached through the firewall to master cylinders. I removed the pin that held each pedal to the y-shaped bracket that goes through the firewall into the cylinder. Then I was able to pull the pedals out entirely.

Up against the firewall there were some cardboard pieces in each footwell and in the center. I removed these by removing the screws and eyelets that held them in place. The pieces had been wet in the past and one of them was damp when I removed it. These pictures show the cardboard that was on the passenger side and the firewall beneath it.

Finally here is a shot of the firewall after the pedals were removed. There are only a couple of items remaining!