OEM Exhaust Manfold

This week my new original-style exhaust manifold arrived! I bought the manifold on ebay after keeping an eye out for one for several months. The manifold that came with the car was an aftermarket header, which is pretty typical because the OEM version was prone to cracking.

This one actually does have some cracking and evidence of a repair. I will probably have to send it off for more repairs.

But for today I spent a little time cleaning up the manifold with water, Simple Green, and a brillo pad.

Detailing the Engine: Paint & Polish

This weekend I painted the oil pan and engine block, as well as did some final polishing work on the aluminum valve cover and timing cover. Basically this completed my cosmetic detailing of the engine, and left only the reassembly to be done.

Before doing any painting I wanted to reinstall the stripped and cleaned-up valve cover to protect the head from any contamination. I bought a new valve cover gasket for $35 from datsunparts.com. The new gasket slid onto the bottom edge of the valve cover.

Here is the valve cover with the new gasket installed. Note the patchwork done on the underside of the cover when the original smog equipment was removed.

I slapped the valve cover back onto the head.

Then I added the two retaining washers and nut to the top of the cover. I tightened the nuts down by hand and then with a 15/16″ socket.

Here is the valve cover. I placed a strip of masking tape temporarily covering the area where the oil cap resides.

The first order of business was to paint the oil pan black. It was in good condition but the finish had some scratches in it. So I began by masking off the bottom of the block from the top of the oil pan.

I also taped-up the bottom of the crank pulley and masked off the upper part of the engine (block and head) with newspaper.

Here is the oil pan prior to painting. I roughed up the surface using some 150 grit sandpaper and then used a tack-cloth to remove the dust. The paint I used was Rustoleum High Heat Enamel in flat black, which resists heat up to 1200 degrees, which is easily twice as hot as this oil pan should ever get.

I painted the oil pan in three thin coats, allowing for 30 minutes of drying time in between coats. After the paint had dried overnight I removed the masking tap and newspapers.

Next I painted the block itself. The block was black when I got the car, but the original color of U20 engine blocks was a blue-green turquoise color. The last things I had to remove were the oil filter and dipstick. I did so and then masked off the oil filter mount using painter’s tape.

I also masked the exposed oil fittings, freeze plugs, and head and timing cover from the block. I rolled the engine outside into my driveway.

Before painting the color I spot primed some areas where the old finish had been compromised and bare metal was exposed.

I also primed the pieces I had removed from the engine block.

The paint I used was specifically color-matched to the original engine block color. I got a 12 ounce can from datsunparts.com for $18. The paint is rated to 500 degrees.

I applied three thin coats to everything. Here are some pictures taken after the first coat.

And the parts and pieces.

I allowed the paint to dry overnight before unmasking the engine this morning. There was a bit of overspray in areas, which I removed using some paint thinner on the end of a Q-Tip and some sandpaper to clean off the aluminum surfaces.

Here are a couple of pictures of the finished paint job from either end of the engine. Looks good!

With the painting done, I moved on to polishing the valve cover and timing cover. I used a can of Eagle One Nevr Dull mag polish, which comes with wadding that is used to do the polishing.

I polished the valve cover by rubbing the wadding on the cover until all of the dark dirty residue was removed.

Then I used a clean cotton cloth to buff the surface.

Here is the polished valve cover. Most of the work was in the previous sanding, no question.

I similarly polished the timing cover; polish with wadding until it comes up clean, and then buff.

Here is the polished timing cover.

Here is the finished engine with fresh paint and polish.

And a before and after comparison.

Front Wheel Hub & Rotor Installation

Today I installed the rotors onto the front wheel hubs and attached the completed hub and rotor assemblies onto the front suspension.

I bought a pair of new Disk Brakes Australia (DBA) rotors from Dean at datsunparts.com for $230. As far as I can tell (and I looked around) DBA is the only company that makes aftermarket rotors for the roadster (#DBA 610) and new rotors are NLA from Nissan. DBA also offers slotted rotors but I went with the plain ones. The new rotors come wrapped in plastic and with a thin coating of oil on the surface, presumably to prevent any surface rusting prior to installation.

The rotors bolt into the backs (insides) of the hubs in four places. I cut-out just a square of material from the top of the packaging that would enable me to access the bolt holes without fully exposing the rotor to the dust, grease, and other debris in my work area.

I used a bit of brake cleaner to wipe off the surface I’d exposed.

I made a similar cutout on the bottom of the rotor to acces the opposite sides of the bolt holes.

I added the hub on top of the rotor. I slide the rotor towards the edge of my workbench so that the bolt holes underneath would be accessible from below. Using an extension and a 5/8″ socket, I fed the first bolt up through the hole in the rotor and into the threaded hole in the hub.

I rotated the rotor and hub 180 degrees and started the bolt on the opposite side of the rotor in the same manner, but threaded it by hand at first.

After getting all four of the hub-rotor bolts started I tigthened them down sequentially around the hub. This ensured that the rotor and hub met parallel and prevented the bolts from binding up. After several passes around the rotor the hub and rotor pulled together.

I flipped the rotor over (now that the risk of the two pieces coming apart was gone) and did some further tightening with the wrench, again moving in sequence around the rotor.

I got the bolts fairly tight by hand.

Then I used my impace wrench to do the final tightening of the four bolts on each rotor and hub.

With the rotors attached to the hubs, I went ahead and packed the outer wheel bearings with grease.

When the grease came out of the bottom of the bearing I knew it was fully packed.

I placed the outer bearing into its race in the hub and placed the spindle washer on top of it.

Next I removed the protetive wrapping from the rotor, wiped it clean using brake parts cleaner, and prepared to place it onto the spindle.

With it on the spindle I rotated the spindle washer until its tab locked into the groove on the bottom of the spindle. Then I began to twise the castled spindle nut onto the spindle.

I tightend the spindle nut usine a 1 1/8″ socket. Then I torqued it down to 35 pound-feet.

Then I backed the nut off 1/8 of one turn.

I added a 1/8″ 2″ cotter pin through the castled spindle nut and bent it around to prevent the spindle nut from ever backing off.

A while ago I bought a pair of new spindle end caps one ebay for around $12. My old ones were pretty scarred-up. I believe these are still available from Nissan.

I added the new cap onto the end of the hub. It took a good smack from the mallet to drive it on flush.

My final step was to clean off the outer surface of the rotor using some brake cleaner and clean paper towels.

Once I put the brakes on this thing will be ready for wheels!

Front Wheel Hub Assembly

Tonight I installed the new front inner wheel bearings into the wheel hubs. It is easier to get the bearing races into the hubs prior to installing the rotors onto the hubs, because the races need to be pounded into their places and the rotor, once installed, makes accessing the inside of the inner hub difficult.

I bought the new bearings from partsamerica.com. These are SKF bearings, part #BR30206 for the inner (larger) bearings and #BR30204 for the outer (smaller bearings). I paid $16.99 each for the inners and $14.99 each for the outers. These bearings are readily available from many sources. I also bought new front seals, which hold the inner bearings in the back of the hubs. I got these from Carl Yaeger, who stocks plenty of roadster parts for $13.00 for the pair.

I started by adding the race for the small bearing in the outer end of the hub.

I used the old race, which I had removed from the hubs with the old bearings, as a driver to drive the new race into the hub. This enabled me to avoid pounding directly on the edge of the new race. Pound on it I did, using my 3-pound sledge hammer.

Once the old race began to enter the hub I looked around for something longer to drive the new race down further. I settled on my 1 1/4″ impact socket, which was just wide enough to match the inner diameter of the race but narrow enough to fit into the hub.

Shortly the small outer race was bottomed-out against the inner ridge inside the hub.

I turned the hub over and went to work on the larger, inner race. I used my mallet and the old race in the same way.

I didn’t have a large enough socket, so I just continued to pound the old race in on top of the new one, until the new one bottomed-out in its position. Before pounding the old race down I flipped it in such a way that its widest inner edge was facing down into the center of the hub. This made it easier to remove the old race from the opposite side of the hub using a screwdriver to tap that wider edge, which acted like a shelf for the screwdriver to rest on.

Next I tapped the old race out from inside the hub.

I cleaned up both of the races using some brake-part cleaner and wiping with clean paper towels. I also took the opportunity to spray the bearings with brake cleaner to get any finger grease off and hung them up on a wire to thoroughly dry.

I obtained a device from OEM products that is used to pack bearings with grease. I got mine at Autozone for around $9 I think. It has a conical shaped base on which the bearing rests. (Note: if the hands placing that bearing appear more feminine than mine, it is because they are not my hands!)

Then I put the top on, which has a threaded pipe that attaches to the base and grease fitting to which I attached my grease gun.

I pumped in grease until it had packed the bearing and started to flow out of the bottom of the bearing. I then removed the top from the base.

Next we plucked the grease-packed bearing from the top and placed it into the inner hub, so that it rested on its installed race. I placed the new inner hub seal onto the hub.

I tapped the seal into place using my mallet and the old race again as a driver.

I installed the bearing in the other hub in the same way.

Front Suspension Assembly

I spent today putting the front suspension assemblies together. The front suspension consists of a wheel spindle that has upper and lower ball joints bolted to it, which are each in-turn bolted to upper and lower A-arm assemblies. The ball joints act as pivots and the arms bolt to the front-end of the frame, with the springs and shocks, which go in between the arms, regulating the compression and rebound of the suspension.

I assembled each side basically in four steps. First, I put the spindle arm and stub axle together. Second I assembled the lower A-arm, and third I assembled the upper A-arm. Finally, I attached the arm assemblies to the spindle assembly, creating the completed front suspension assembly.

Below I document the assembly of the front left suspension. I began with the wheel spindle. On it will eventually be mounted the hubs, rotors, and wheels.

Over the spindle was mounted a caliper-adapter plate, which had two forward-facing holes onto which the brake calipers bolt. Then, over the adapter plate is a shield that acts as a backer plate for the brake rotors.

However, it was much easier to bolt the ball joints onto the backside of the spindle before bolting those components onto the front. Here is a shot of the back of the spindle, where the upper and lower ball joints mount.

I bought sets of used but excellent condition upper and lower ball joints on ebay. For the uppers I paid $140 and the lowers I paid $150. New ball joints are very expensive, and these used ones are in much better shape than my old ones. All of the new ball joints came with new rubber dust boots. Below left are the lowers and uppers.

I began by pushing the upper ball joint onto the top of the spindle. The downward-facing bolt-shaft was fastened to the spindle by the castle-nut, which I twisted on and then tightened using an 11/16″ socket.

After tightening the nut down I installed a 1/8″ x 1 1/2″ cotter pin and bent it back to prevent the nut from backing off the shaft.

The lower ball joint went on upside-down relative to the upper. I tightened down the castle nut and installed another cotter pin.

My “new” upper ball joints came with new grease zerks, but the lowers did not. I installed a new 45-degree zerk into the lower balls using a 5/16″ box wrench. I actually bought a complete set of new grease zerks for the car, also on ebay, for around $30.

As mentioned above, it is easier to install the ball joints as a first step because I could access the castle nuts for tightening much easier than I could with the other pieces mounted to the spindle.

So, with the ball joints mounted to the back of the spindle, I layered the caliper adapter and backer plate back onto the front of the spindle.

There were a total of four bolts that connected those parts to the spindle. However, the top and bottom bolts connected directly into the spindle, whereas the right and left bolts go through the spindle and bolt into another part. Consequently I installed the top and bottom-oriented bolts first, so that they would hold these three pieces together and oriented correctly. The powdercoating layer made the caliper plate a tight fit around the edge of the spindle, but the bolts pulled the two pieces together nicely.

On the back of the spindle assembly is a steering knuckle bracket, which bolted to the spindle and has a forward-facing hole through which the steering linkage rods connect. This enables the steering wheel to rotate the suspension assembly to turn the car. The knuckle brackets are not interchangeable from one side to the other. The shaft from the steering linkage rods will only fit through one end of the bracket because the hole through which is mounts on the bracket is tapered (wider at one end than the other). The knuckle bracket should be oriented in such a way that the wider end of the hole is facing downwards, because the steering linkage rods mount up through the brackets on the car. Two longer bolts fed through the right and left holes in the front of the spindle assembly and threaded directly into the knuckle.

After tightening down all four bolts that held the spindle assembly together, I torqued each of them down to 35 pound/feet.

Here are a couple of pictures of the inner and outer sides of the spindle assembly.

 

The second step, after putting the spindle assemblies together, was to assemble the lower A-arms. Below is a picture of the pieces that constitute one of the lower A-arms. It is important to note that not all arms are created equal. Each A assembly contains one straight arm and one angled arm. I went back to the pictures of when I took the front end apart, and realized that the straighter arm is oriented towards the front of the car with the A-arm assembly upside-down, as it is connected to the car. The straight arms also have a tab (faces downwards) and a slot (faces upwards) onto which the front anti-sway bar mounts. Keeping the arms in the appropriate positions and even matching the same spindles back to their corresponding arms made everything go together more smoothly.

The first thing I did after laying out the pieces was to install the spindle into the arm pieces. First I slipped on the new dust boots, which I bought for $1.55 apiece from Nissan (part #54539-04200).

The spindles threaded onto the arms and I tightened them down by hand.

Then I turned my attention to the spring plate, which is the triangular piece that mounts into the center of the lower A-arm. The plate has a center disk bolted into it (the shock plate) through which the shaft of the shock absorber bolts. Also, the triangular plate itself supports the bottom of the spring.

The powdercoating must have worked its way into the bolt holes, because I found it necessary to chase the threads with a 1/4″-28 tap to get the bolts to thread.

I added the new bolts through the shock plate and tightened them down very firmly using a 7/16″ socket.

The spring plate mounted to the arm pieces with four bolts; two on either side. In order to get the holes to line up and force the spring plate up into the arm, I used a large screwdriver as a lever through the upper right pair of holes. After prying downward on the screwdriver to align the holes on the opposite side, I slipped one of the bolts through to lock the plate into position. I then tightened down the nut on that bolt and worked the other bolts into place. I used a 9/16″ socket on the bolt and a 9/16″ wrench on the nut.

Finally I torqued all of the bolts down to 30 pound/feet.

I added a pair of 45-degree grease zerks at either end of the spindle, using a 5/16″ wrench to tighten them down. That completed assembly of the lower A-arms.

The third step was to assemble the upper A-arms. The upper A-arms bolt onto the upper ball joints and also connect to the frame just above and behind where the shocks and springs mount to the frame. I began by installing new dust boots (part #54541-04100 from Nissan, priced at $.59 each) on the ends of the upper A-arm spindles.

Then I put the spindle onto the stamped A-arm piece in order to thread the metal bushing pieces onto the spindle.

I started the bushings onto both ends of the spindle and hand-tightened them roughly equal amounts. When installing the bushings I was sure to replace the lock-plates that have tabs that bend down onto the bushings to prevent them from backing off the spindle. I used my impact wrench with a 1 1/8″ impact socket to alternate tightening the two end bushings down until they were tight.

The uppers were fairly simple to assemble.

I completed the assemblies by adding new grease zerks to the bushings.

The fourth step was to bolt the upper and lower A-arms onto the spindle assemblies, through the ball joints. This would complete the front suspension assembly.

I began with the lower A-arm assembly. It mounted on the lower ball joint and was held in place by four bolts. The little arms on the base of the ball joint fed into the triangle-point of the A-arm. I used a mallet to persuade the ball joint to go into place.

Once I got the first of the holes to align, I tapped a new bolt through to hold that position. Then I worked the rest of the holes into alignment by further tapping the ball joint back. I inserted the remaining three bolts from below.

Before installing the nuts on those bolts, I had to drop on the bumpstop. Because I will be installing competition front springs that will lower the front-end by an inch or so, the stock rubber bumpstops would be too large. They would come into play much more frequently at the lower ride height, each time causing a temporary but disconcerting loss of traction. The Bob Sharp Competition Manual suggests cutting down and shaping the stock bumps to about half their original height. I elected to replace the stops with new urethane bumps from Energy Suspension. I bought these, which were around 1 1/2″ tall, from Summit Racing (part #ENS-9-9103) for $8.50 for the pair. They are also available in red : ).

The new bumpstops had a threaded shaft that was a bit larger in diameter than stock bumpstops. In order to mount them on the bumpstop bracket I had to tap the hole using a 7/16″-20 tap. That enabled me to screw the new bumpstops onto the brackets.

Underneath the bracket I added the bolt onto the shaft and tightened it down using a 14 mm socket on a long extension.

The new bumpstops mounted very firmly to the old brackets.

So I dropped the bumpstop assembly over the lower ball joint/lower A-arm bolts and then put on the new nylock nuts. I torqued the bolts to 17 pound/feet using a 1/2″ socket in the torque wrench.

Here is a shot of the assembly after attaching the lower A-arm and prior to installing the upper A-arm.

The upper A-arm simply mounted over the upper ball joint, and was attached using four bolts that threaded down into the ball joint’s arms. The hole in the top of the upper A-arm enabled the ball of the upper ball joint to protrude through and allowed for access to the grease zerk in the ball joint. I torqued these bolts down using a 1/2″ socket to 17 pound/feet.

That completed the front end suspension assembly. The next step will be to bolt each side onto the frame.

Rear Axle Installation

Tonight I finished re-installing the rear axle assemblies into the differential, a job I had begun yesterday. With the rear axle bearings replaced, pressed on, and packed with grease, it was just a matter of re-inserting them into the differential, lining everything up, and tightening the bolts.

First I had to replace the inner grease seals. Removing the old seals was more difficult than I’d anticipated. I bought new seals from Carl Jaeger, a roadster parts vendor located up in Canada. The seals are NLA from Nissan but Carl sold me a pair for $15. Here are pictures of the new seals and the old seal in place on one side.

I couldn’t get the old seals out and I tried a lot of methods. Grabbing with pliers resulted in tearing off bits of rubber. So tonight on my way home from work I stopped at Autozone to see if they may have a puller for rent that would do the trick. It would need to be small and have the arms gripping outward unlike a typical pulley puller. The provided me with the hooked seal puller shown below. For $7 I decided it was worth a try. I hooked it on the edge of the seal as shown on the packaging.

I gave the tool’s handle a couple of taps with the hammer, and out popped the seal! This is a tool I highly recommend for this purpose after struggling all day Sunday with how to remove those stubborn seals.

I wiped the area behind the old seal clean in preparation for the new seal.

I pressed the new seal into place with the flat side out, same as the old one. I found a 1 1/4″ socket that was about the same circumference as the seal. After adding a short extension to the socket I had a nice little driver to seat the seal in place.

So I lined the socket up over the seal and gave it a couple of light taps with the mallet. The seal seated firmly and squarely into the axle housing.

With the new inner grease seal in place, I inserted the axle. Pictured is the installation of the left axle, which had two shims and which I marked in order to be sure I kept track of it. The right side required no shims.

About halfway in there was a bit of resistance. Then maybe 3/4 of the way the axle entered the differential. I turned it a bit to get it to start into the diff.

Then I stopped to put the two shims, where are cut so they need not go over the end, onto the axle. The shims were Nissan part #43036-04100 and cost $1.18 each.

Then I slide the axle the rest of the way in. It seated with a satisfying “thunk.”

First I turned the backer plate on the axle in order to align the holes in the grease catcher with those in the backer plate. I started the first bolt through the rubber grease catcher and the catcher packing gasket and then through the backer plate hole. I simply re-used the original bolts, which have a head that is flat on one side which rides up against a step in the grease catcher to prevent the bolt from spinning.

Then I started the second bolt. I slid the axle out a bit in order to align the holes in the shims on the inside of the backer plate with the bolts. Then I pushed the axle back in, hanging the shims on the bolts and making sure the two bolts when through the bolt holes in the axle casing.

Then I pushed the other two bolts through the assembly and casing, and started the new lock-nuts, provided as part of Pat Mahoney’s rear-end bolt pack. I used a 1/2″ socket to tightened the nuts onto the bolts, moving in a star pattern. First I tightened them all down to just touch the housing.

Finally I torqued down each bolt, moving in the same pattern around the axle, to 28 foot/pounds using my torque wrench (Spec, according to my Chilton’s manual, is 20-28 foot/pounds).

Here are some pictures of the re-assembled differential.

The final step was to replace the breather and drain plugs, and re-fill the differential with gear oil. I used one quart of 75-90 weight Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil.

All New Bolts

I ordered an entire set of new bolts for the roadster’s frame, front-end, and rear-end. Pat Mahoney has assembled high-quality bolts in all the appropriate sizes to restore a roadster, and offers them for sale for a very reasonable price.

Pat’s bolt packs contain the following:

DATSUN ROADSTER BOLT PACKAGE
CAP SCREWS, NUTS AND WASHERS ARE MADE IN THE U.S.A. AND MEET OR EXCEED GRADE 8 SPECIFICATIONS. DY-CRO-SYST PLATING LASTS 11 TIMES LONGER THAN ZINC AND 8 TIMES LONGER THAN CADMIUM.FRONT END: CONSISTS OF THE FOLLOWING
LOWER BALL JOINT
8ea. with 8ea. ny-loks
LOWER A-ARM
8ea. with 8ea. std. nuts and lock washers
STEERING AND IDLER BOXES
6ea. with 6ea. std. nuts and lock washers
LOWER A-ARM COIL SPRING SEAT
8ea. with 4ea. std. nuts and 8ea. lock washers
UPPER A-ARM
4ea. with 4ea. ny-loks
UPPER BALL JOINT
8ea. with 8ea. lock washers
FRONT SWAY BAR
4ea. with 4ea. lock washers
LOWER A-ARM SHOCK MOUNT CIRCLE
6ea. with 6ea. lock washers
CALIPER MOUNT
4ea. with 4ea. lock washers
SPINDLE TO KNUCKLE ARM
4ea. with 4ea. lock washers
SPINDLE TO CALIPER ADAPTER
4ea. with 4ea. lock washersFRAME: CONSISTS OF THE FOLLOWING
REAR LEAF MOUNTS
6ea. with 6ea. lock washers and 2ea. std. nuts
BODY TO FRAME
6ea. with 6ea. lock washers, 8ea. flat washers and 2ea. nuts
BODY TO FRAME
8ea. with 8ea. lock washers and 8ea. flat washers
FRONT AND REAR BUMPERS
8ea. and 6ea. with lock and 6ea. flat washers
ENGINE MOUNT
4ea. with 4ea. lock washers and 2ea. nuts
TRANNY X-MEMBER
6ea. with 6ea. lock washers
REAR EXHAUST MOUNT
2ea. with 2ea. lock washersREAR END: CONSISTS OF THE FOLLOWING
UPPER SHOCK MOUNT
2ea. ny-lok
SPRING U-BOLT
8ea. ny-lok
REAR AXLE FLANGE
8ea. ny-lok

The latest pricing for bolt packs as of this writing was $42.50 for the front end, $22.50 for the frame pack, and $12.50 for the rear end, plus shipping. All three were available for the package price of $67.50 plus shipping. I’ve looked over all the hardware and it is very nice and excellent quality. My frame will look nice with all new nuts and bolts, plus some of the stock bolts didn’t make it through the disassembly intact, so I won’t have to worry about finding replacements and sizing those orphan bolts.

For more information contact Pat by e-mail at: dynaguy54@hotmail.com.

New Rims

Friday night before bed I logged onto the forums at classiczcars.com and noticed someone selling a set of slotted mag wheels. Early z-car wheels are a good fit for the roadster and this seller happened to be in San Antonio, which is a good 90 minute drive from me. I put in an offer on the wheels immediately.
This morning the seller came back to me and accepted my offer. We drove down to San Antone (as it is pronounced locally), had lunch on the river, and dropped by to meet Ken and complete the transactions on the wheels.
These are 14×5.5″ 5-slot polished mags and they will look much better than the steelies that came with the car.

They have a nice, old-school look and I got a great deal on them. They have a couple of dings and scratches, but I think they will clean-up very nicely. Overall I’m highly pleased.
Now I just need to build a car to mount them on!

Grease Zerks

The Datsun 2000 has a total of 20 grease zerks, primarily for keeping the front suspension components lubricated. I’ve found there are three different types of zerks in these 20. The center rod has two of part #00932-10200, priced at $1.27 each from Nissan. The lower A-arm spindles (4 total fittings), upper A-arm spindles (4), and lower ball joints (2) use part #00932-20200, priced at $1.21 each. And the upper ball joints (2), tie rod ends (4), hand brake (1), and idler arm (1) each use part #00932-30200, which cost $1.68 each.

I believe that 00932-10200 is a straight fitting, 00932-20200 is a 45-degree fitting, and 00932-30200 is a 90-degree fitting. I should be able to measure the threads of the zerks on the suspension and buy the right sizes pretty cheap from the hardware store.

Suspension Parts

Today I didn’t get much of anything done on the car, but I did do some research into the parts I will need when I rebuild the front and rear suspensions and the steering linkage. There are several rubber bits, including bushings, grease seals, and dust boots that I will replace with new pieces. The following table shows the results of my research, including Nissan part numbers and current prices from Everything Nissan.

Part Name Part Number Price (each)
Leaf spring rear bolt bushing (8) 55046-04100 $1.36
Leaf spring pad (4) E4043-C9001 $5.99
Leaf spring front bolt bushing (2) 55045-04100 $12.29
Rear bumpstop (2) 55240-25500 $5.38
Torque rod bushing (2) 55404-25500 ?
Upper ball joint boot (2) 40142-25900 $7.24
Lower ball joint boot, inner (2) ? ?
Lower ball joint boot, outer (2) 40192-25900 $8.26
Tie rod bearing boot (4) 48522-25900 $12.94
Center rod bearing boot (2) 48522-16501 $7.90
Upper A-arm spindle boot (4) 54541-04100 $0.59
Lower A-arm spindle boot (4) 54539-04200 $1.55
Front spring isolator (2) 54036-04100 $2.28
Small upper bumpstop (2) 54053-04100 $0.80
Lock-washer clips for spindle (4) 54509-04100 $0.61
Ball joint clip (4) 40091-08000 $0.21

I’m not sure which of these parts will be available from Nissan and which are NLA. Some of the rubber bushings I may replace with eurethane where available from Energy Suspension or one of the roadster vendors, provided it doesn’t get to be too expensive.

The front bumpstops need to be modified to use competition springs that drop the front end an inch or so. Using comp springs with doing this would result in the bumps contacting the A-arms all to frequently, which can be pretty harsh and make you momentarily use traction. One option is to cut down the stock bumps to about half their intended height. Another option is to use smaller bumpstops. I plan to do the latter, and Energy Suspension part number 9.9103 ($9 per pair) fits the bill. At 1 9/16″ tall, they are just about an inch shorter than the stock bumpstops.

Also from Energy Suspension, parts 9.13105 ($6 per pair) and 9.13119 ($6 per pair) can be substituted for the upper and lower ball joint boots respectively, and are somewhat cheaper than the Nissan boots, so I will probably use them instead. I buy Energy Suspension products from Suspension Restoration in California. ES has a urethane universal spring isolator that should fit this application, but at $9 per pair they are nearly twice the cost of the Nissan parts, so if they are available from I will buy from Nissan.

ES has no urethane rear leaf spring bushing kit for the roadster, but they do have one for the early Datsun 510s (part 7.7102, $17). If the leaf springs in a 68 510 are the same as in the 68 roadster, I will buy the urethane bushings instead of rubber for the leaf spring bolts.